Hampstead Heath: Glorious views and cosy corners

There are plenty of reasons not to go to Hampstead Heath. For a start, the tube doesn’t quite take you there. Hampstead heath is in a faraway land called zone 3, stretching out between the two upwards-pointing branches of the northern line. You can of course get off at a number of these stations and walk there, but it does involve some effort.

Secondly, being situated outside the protecting warmth of the smog and the comforting shield of tall buildings in central London, it’s a tad cold and windy up there. And since it’s at one of the highest peaks of London, it involves walking uphill. Perhaps this is why the locals have managed to keep the Heath to themselves. At this time of the year, you can walk for hours in the hills and the plains of London’s largest ancient parkland without seeing more than a couple of dog owners and some families. People seem to want to keep it secret: Hampstead Heath is where you’ll find the best views of London.

Panoramic inspiration

The view from Parliament Hill is so stunning that it is protected by law. That means it is illegal to build anything that obstructs your view of St Paul’s Cathedral, Canary Wharf and the many layers of houses that muddle into a pastel collage in the horizon. As you take in the view, and the wind takes over your hair, you’ll understand why the Heath and its surrounding suburbs have attracted so many creative spirits over time. Charles Dickens, T. S. Eliot, D. H. Lawrence and George Orwell are some of the past residents in nearby Hampstead village.

Things to do

At the northern end of the Heath, the stately home of Kenwood House is open to visitors. It hosts a number of concerts and cultural events during the summer, and gets quite crowded when the weather is nice. Yet, the best summer treat is at the eastern rim of the Heath: The ponds, still separated Victorian-style into men’s, women’s and mixed, are the perfect place to relax and take a dip on a hot summer day. A group of hardcore winter bathers do this all year round, but for those who prefer to be above sea level, the ice-skating rink at the southern end of the Heath might be a more comfortable exercise option during the colder months.

A trip to the Heath is not complete without a pit stop in The Flask or The Spaniard, two legendary pubs that both claim to have hosted the notorious highway robber and murderer Dick Turpin. Minty from EastEnders can also be seen lurking around in the shadows from time to time.

Getting there

To get to Hampstead Heath, get on the Northern line and chose your point of attack: Archway, Kentish Town, Belsize Park, Hampstead and Golders Green are all good starting points. Allow yourself to get lost in the wilderness. Then keep walking till you reach a pub.