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The Entrecôte Experience

Submitted by Michele Martinelli on Wednesday, 31 March 2010No Comment

french restaurantMany visitors to Marylebone High Street wonder why, with so many good restaurants to choose from, there are always people willing to queue outside Le Relais de Venise. There are two possible reasons for this: it is either one of the few restaurants in London which does not take reservations, or it is just very good.

The concept is simple and there is only one menu–salad followed by entrecote steak and chips. The only choice diners have to make is how they want their meat cooked. This system allows Le Relais de Venise to ensure that everyone is served quickly and efficiently before being handed the bill and replaced by the next person in line.

One menu will set you back £20 (not including dessert or wine) which is not bad for this area of London. The food itself is good. The green salad is sprinkled with walnuts and garnished with a mustard sauce which tastes more English than French. The main course, ‘steak frites’ comes rare, medium or well-done as the restaurant refuses to entertain the notion of medium-rare or any other combination of the above. The delicious sauce, which has a buttery, salty taste complemented by a variety of herbs, is one of the reasons behind the restaurant chain’s success in France. The plentiful portion allows you to mop it up with your baguette, chips and steak.

The major gripe people seem to have with the restaurant is the customer service, or lack thereof. The restaurant is fairly small and crammed with a maximum number of tables which makes the work of the tireless servers quite difficult. The waitresses, all female and all suspiciously dressed as French maids, do not have the time or patience to humour customers demanding extra bread or sauce. In this sense the service is not rude but ruthlessly efficient; you will be served within minutes of your arrival and will leave having spent more time queuing in the cold than enjoying your meal.

The desserts are surprisingly varied and prices range from £7.50 for a cheese platter to £4.50 for a Cassis Sorbet. Though the desserts were generally good, there was nothing special. The usual array of espressos, teas and digestives are also available.

In short Le Relais offers a fine steak and chips meal to those willing to wait for up to half an hour in the cold. The food is good, the service is brisk and the bill is reasonable. Those who complain about the staff’s coldness have obviously never crossed the channel as this represents the most authentic part of the experience.

Le Relais de Venise is located at 120 Marylebone Lane, London W1U 4NS. Lunch and dinner are served daily with a set menu costing £20, not including desserts and drinks.

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